Pruners (likewise called clippers, pruning shears, or secateurs) are used to cut and shape plants, deadhead, prune out dead or broken foliage and small branches, and cut back perennials. They are among the most-used gardening tools so it is very important to get a set that works well for you.
On this page, you’ll find all the info you require to help you decide which hand pruner is best for you. We cover everything from kinds of pruning shears to functions, design, and use. We also have a lot of practical videos!
If you’re just trying to find our suggestions on the very best pruning shears, skip down to completion for details on lots of hand pruners and a description of the major brands and designs.
Pruning shears normally won’t cut through anything that’s over.5 inches in diameter (some will cut up to.75 inch, but that will take a reasonable little grip strength). If you’re cutting something thicker than that, you’ll require a lopper (see our Best Loppers for Pruning review) or a pruning saw (see our post on Best Pruning Saws: Guide & Recommendations).
Pruning tools been available in a variety of styles and cost points and it can be confusing attempting to select the best one. In this short article, we examine the features to think about when purchasing pruning shears so that you’ll know what to search for in choosing a quality tool.
How to Choose the Best Pruning Shears for You
There isn’t just one type of pruning shear that’s best for everybody. What works best for you will depend on your hand shapes and size, grip strength, the type and amount of pruning you do, and your spending plan. In basic, there are 8 things you need to consider when choosing pruners.
Important Considerations When Buying Pruning Shears
1. Kind Of Pruning Shears
There two fundamental types of pruners– bypass pruners and anvil pruners.
Bypass Pruners. These are most popular. You get a tidy cut from two curved blades that move past each other (hence ‘bypass’) much like a pair of scissors. Among the blades is sharp and cuts as it moves by a thicker unsharpened blade.
Anvil Pruners. These have a one straight blade that cuts as it closes onto a flat edge (or ‘anvil’) – giving an action comparable to a knife on a chopping board. They are typically a little bulkier than bypass pruners which can make them challenging to enter tight locations. Due to the fact that the blade often squashes stems when cutting (unless the blade is exceptionally sharp), these are best utilized on dead wood, rather than live plants.
You’ll also find a third kind of pruning shear, although it’s truly a kind of anvil pruner, instead of a separate class.
As you squeeze ratcheting pruning shears, they lock so you can release and squeeze once again, carrying out the cut in easy actions rather than one go. It’s particularly excellent for those with less strength in their wrist, or for cutting thicker stems that routine shears can not deal with.
We advise bypass pruners, instead of anvil or cog pruners, as these generally offer the cleanest cut, are easiest to use, are more likely to have replacement parts, and benefit a series of pruning jobs.
To find out more, see our video –
Bypass vs. Anvil Pruners: What’s the Difference?
2. Availability of Replacement Parts
Not all pruning shears permit you to replace parts that break, wear, or get harmed. Typically speaking, the higher quality pruners have replacements parts (typically available straight from the manufacturer or supplier– check their sites for information) while the least costly do not (it’s more cost-effective to just change the pruners).
Remember, nevertheless, that you get what you pay for– cheaper products might not withstand frequent use therefore may require to be changed typically. A slightly bigger investment in a greater quality pruning shear might be cheaper in the long run.
3. Ergonomic Design
Not everybody likes so-called “ergonomic style” but, if you intend to prune or deadhead often, you’ll value the manner in which these tools minimize wrist stress, need less pressure to close, and generally make the pruning experience more pleasurable.
This type of style typically consists of soft-grip deals with, angled blades, and a slightly curved shape. Pruners are also offered with a rotating deal with that turns with your hand as you open and close the manages (if you do a lot of pruning, this can make a big difference in hand fatigue).
4. High-Quality Steel Blades
Pruner blades are usually constructed out of steel. In some cases they’re coated with a non-stick compound that withstands sap and other sticky products. Try to find blades made from high quality, hardened or carbon steel– they last longer and are less most likely to nick or need regular sharpening. Poorer quality blades don’t hold a sharp edge and so make pruning a laborious job that also damages plants.
Associated with blade quality is how carefully the blades pass as you open and close them; the closer the better. Quality pruning shears will permit you to change the tightness of the cutting mechanism and ensure that the blades are tightly held against each other.
5. Locking Mechanism
Many pruners have some sort of system that allows you to lock it in the closed position. Not only is this more secure (you can’t inadvertently cut yourself on a sharp blade) however it also secures the blades when not in usage.
Some mechanisms work better than others. Look for a lock that’s easy to open and close (we especially like the ARS ‘capture to open’ latch mechanism), doesn’t get in the way while you’re using the tool, and sits tight when in the open or locked position. There’s nothing more bothersome than having your pruning shears constantly locking up while you’re using them.
6. Strong Spring
Many pruning shears have a spring between the 2 handles that pushes the handles/blades apart when you relax your grip. This lowers the workload and hand tiredness.
There are 2 typical kinds of springs: coiled metal (also called a volute spring) and wire springs. Both work well however look for one that’s firmly attached to the deals with so it does not unintentionally pop off or get pulled off by branches when pruning trees or shrubs. Some brands, like Corona, have a spring-like system incorporated into the cutting head so there’s no chance of the spring getting captured or popping off.
Pruners without springs are more like scissors– they count on your fingers to pull the handles apart with each cut and are extremely exhausting to use for more than just a few cuts at a time.
6. Strong Spring
Many pruning shears have a spring in between the two deals with that presses the handles/blades apart when you unwind your grip. This reduces the work and hand fatigue.
There are two typical types of springs: coiled metal (also called a volute spring) and wire springs. Both work well but look for one that’s securely connected to the manages so it does not inadvertently pop off or get managed by branches when pruning trees or shrubs. Some brands, like Corona, have a spring-like system integrated into the cutting head so there’s no possibility of the spring getting captured or popping off.
Pruners without springs are more like scissors– they depend on your fingers to pull the manages apart with each cut and are very strenuous to use for more than simply a few cuts at a time.
7. Easy to Disassemble
Not all pruning shears can be taken apart for cleansing and to more easily sharpen the blades. With time, sap, dirt, and other residue builds up on the blades and in between the handles, making it more difficult to close and open the pruners. It’s simplest to clean your pruners if you can take them apart. Without taking pruning shears apart, you can not sharpen the whole blade, resulting in distorted blades after numerous sharpenings.
For additional information, see our videos –
How to Remove & Replace the Blades on Felco Pruners
How to Remove & Replace the Blades on BAHCO Pruners
How to Clean Pruner Blades (and Remove Sap).
How to Sharpen Bypass Pruner Blades.
How to Sharpen Bypass Pruners with a Carbide Sharpener.
8. Size and Weight.
Consider both how well the pruning shears suit your hand and how big a size branch they can easily cut. Most pruners will manage about a 1/2″ branch, however some can cut up to 1″ or more. Don’t be tempted to cut bigger branches though; it will be harder to make a tidy cut and can cause wrist or finger stress.
If you’ll be doing a great deal of pruning, inspect the weight of the pruners– much heavier ones will cause more fatigue.
So Which Pruners Are Right For You?
Take stock of what kinds of things you’ll be pruning. Do you require a sturdy tool that will cut through 1-inch wood, or will a light-duty pruner for flowers and small shrubs suffice? That will help you decide whether you require a bypass, anvil or ratcheting anvil pruner.
Determine your spending plan. Like the majority of gardening tools, pruning shears come in a range of rate points and, while you generally get better quality at greater rates, it’s not always needed to pay more to get what you require (see the point above).
To assist you make the ideal decision, we’ve supplied two various methods of selecting pruners – by brand and by rating (although that just uses to the pruning shears that we’ve examined).