All About Self-Watering Planters & Containers

All About Self-Watering Planters & Containers

Self-watering containers are an essential if you’re absent-minded, live in a hot or dry climate, or you’re simply not house extremely often. They’re likewise valuable if your containers remain in a location that’s not convenient to a water spigot, such as a terrace, if you’re growing plants that do not like to dry out, or if the plants don’t like getting their leaves damp.

In the video listed below, I stroll you through:

the features of self-watering containers,
how they work,
various types (consisting of DIY alternatives), and
how to plant and grow things in them.
Or simply keep checking out for all the information, including my top recommendations.

What is a self-watering container or planter?
Contrary to what the name indicates, a “self-watering planter” does not in fact water itself. But it does supply a constant source of moisture to the plants growing in it and permits you to water less frequently.

Styles may differ somewhat across brand names and planter styles, the fundamentals are the very same. Water is put straight into a water reservoir and after that “wicked” into the planting container above the reservoir.

Parts and Common Features
Not all self-watering planters will have all of the items listed below, but they typically include a:

water tank
planting container
wicking system
fill tube
overflow hole or spout
water level sign
drain hole and plug
The top area of a self-watering planter is usually for your potting mix and plants, while the bottom contains the water reservoir. Look for a planter with a water tank that’s big enough to supply adequate moisture for the volume of potting mix in the container above and that you will not have to fill every day.

A fill tube or opening of some kind is used to put water directly into the reservoir. (I like that alternative but unless the cap is connected to the container, I constantly end up losing it!).

Some planters have an indicator that demonstrates how much water is in the tank. These are hassle-free, as you’ll have a better concept of when the reservoir needs to be filled up.

All planters need to have an overflow system that permits water to drain pipes out if the reservoir is filled to full. This avoids plants from being in water (which would rot them pretty rapidly) if you overfill the reservoir by error and keeps water at the right level after a heavy rain.

A drain hole with a plug permits you to drain the container at the end of the season (don’t leave water in the reservoir during the winter season if there’s any chance it could freeze) or bring it inside.

How do self-watering planters work?
There are 2 standard methods which self-watering planters move water from the tank into the planting container above, both of which count on capillary action. If you’ve ever dipped one end of a paper towel in water, you’ll have seen capillary action in action as water gradually creeps throughout the rest of the paper towel. In self-watering systems, you’ll the following designs:.

A “wick” is positioned inside the container, with one end in the water reservoir and the other end in the potting mix. This can be a strip of capillary mat, an absorbent tube-shaped plug or a thick string. The wick essentially sucks water out of the reservoir and delivers it to the potting mix.
The planting container is created with a section that sits inside the water tank, placing potting mix directly in contact with the water. Water from the wet mix in that section is pulled up into the remainder of the planting container through capillary action. This is the most common style.

A 3rd design often sold as being “self-watering” has a perforated separator between the tank and planting container (so potting mix is never ever in direct contact with the water below). It counts on evaporation from the reservoir to dampen soil at the bottom of the planter and, from there, spread it throughout the container. In my experience, this is the least reliable of the self-watering container designs.

How are they useful?
Constant Moisture and Less Frequent Watering.
I like self-watering containers due to the fact that they supply consistent moisture for your plants without needing to continuously water by hand. At our headquarters here in Tucson, my planters that do not have a self-watering system require to be watered two times a day throughout the summertime to keep them from drying. On the other hand, my self-watering planters usually go a week between waterings (and the TruDrop planters can go two to three weeks, even in 100F+ temperature levels!).

The consistency is specifically valuable for plants that do not respond well to inconsistent watering, such as tomatoes; you’ll probably discover that you have a better yield if you use self-watering planters for your vegetables. I’ve had great results growing veggies in the Vegepod (a self-watering planter that won our Golden Shovel Award in 2018) and now use it for all my lettuce, beans, squash and tomatoes.

Keep in mind: Some plants, such as cactus and succulents, do not grow well in continuously wet conditions. Don’t plant them in a self-watering container.

More Efficient Use of Water.

Since water remains in an enclosed tank, it doesn’t evaporate straight into the air; instead, it goes directly to the plant’s roots. In contrast, when you spray your plants (and even when you use a watering can), a lot of that water goes on the ground or the plant’s leaves, where it evaporates without benefiting the plant.

Prevents Plant Diseases.
Some plants, like tomatoes and phlox, are vulnerable to fungal diseases if the leaves get damp. By watering from below, a self-watering container bypasses this concern, leading to healthier plants.

How to set up a self-watering container.
At this point, if you have not viewed the video (above), this would be a great time to examine it out, so that you can see a demonstration of how a self-watering planter works and how to plant it.

However, generally, you’ll wish to follow these steps:.

Place the parts into the container (according to instructions for your particular self-watering system).
Include any type of moist potting mix to the planting container. Some companies offer blends specific for self-watering containers but any premium mix will work. The key is to dampen it prior to putting it in the planting container. If you use dry potting mix, it will not work.
Load the moistened mix into the depressions at the bottom of the planting container (that’s where the wetness gets wicked up into the soil/roots) OR if your system has a wick, make sure one end (or both ends– check out the directions for your planter) is placed in the water tank.
Plant your favorite plants in the container. Don’t compact the potting mix but do firm in the plants so they’re well-supported.
Water from the top to remove air pockets and settle the roots (include additional potting mix if required). This is typically the only time you’ll water from above; after this, just fill the tank straight.
Wait a while for water to percolate down through the potting mix into the tank. Fill the tank completely.
If it does, water from above to make sure that all of the potting mix is thoroughly moistened prior to filling the reservoir once again. Dry planting mix will not wick water so even if you fill the tank, the plants won’t receive the moisture they need.

At the end of the season …
Remove the potting mix from the planter each year (you can utilize it again if wanted) and clear out the reservoir. Roots tend to grow down into the reservoir and can entirely fill it or obstruct the wicking wells. This is specifically real for plants like sweet potato vine; they grow incredibly well in a self-watering planter however the roots are aggressive in their look for water, sending big masses of roots into the reservoir and quickly drawing it dry.

In areas with cold winters, drain pipes the planter prior to saving it for the winter. Any water that freezes inside the reservoir can break the walls.

Which kinds of containers are available/recommended?
Self-watering containers vary by brand, design, size, functions, look and more, just like most planting containers. I’ve used various types over the years– below are my favorites.

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